A Girl's Reversible JumperWe used the Pinafore pattern included in McCall's #3949 to make a square-necked reversible jumper. [Note: We drafted this pattern up to size 12 since the largest size included is size 8. We did not make the collar as square as we originally intended because we forgot to make the change. :)] This makes a really cute and practical garment with very little extra work than would be put into a regular jumper.
When picking out your fabrics, keep in mind that thinner fabrics may show through a little to the other side, so you might want to choose similar colors, and of course, fabrics that have similar contents. In this case, we chose a floral print for one side and a matching gingham for the reversible side and used the opposite side's fabric to make the ruffle for an accent. You can add pockets and other contrasting trim along the neckline to add more accents from the contrasting fabric.
Reversible garments just require a little more thought, twice as many buttons, and a little more fabric. Have fun with them! :)
1. Cut out 2 Bodice Front Pieces and 1 Bodice Back piece on the fold of each of the two fabrics you are using.
2. Stitch the Bodice Front sections to the Bodice Back at the shoulder seams on one fabric and then repeat this with the other fabric. Press open the shoulder seams. At this point you should have two separate bodices.
3. With right sides facing together, pin and stitch the two bodices together at the armholes, and up the center front edge around the neck edge, and down the other front edge.
4. Clip the curves and corners on the armholes and neck edge. Pull the Bodice Front Sections through the shoulders to turn the bodice right side out. Iron the seams so that they lay flat.
5. Open out the sides of the bodice and pin together with the right sides of each matching fabric together. Stitch in one continuous seam. Turn lining down and press.
6. Cut 2 panels for the skirt out of each fabric to your desired width and length. We made each of our skirt panels about 1 1/2 to 2 times larger than half of the waist measurement. (So, in making a size 12 jumper and keeping in mind that the ruffle would add several inches, we cut ours 27 inches long at the 45" width of fabric.)
Cut 1 panel of each of the two sets of fabric in half at the center from top to bottom to make the center front opening. (In other words, one of the 45" wide panels would now be 22 1/2" wide and still the 27 inches long.)
7. Stitch the front skirt panels of each fabric to its corresponding back panel at the sides (right sides facing together). You should now have two separate "skirts."
8. Place the two skirt panels with right sides together. Pin together and stitch along the center front sides like so:
9. Cut strips of each fabric for a ruffle. We cut our ruffle 5 2/4 inches wide so that the finished width was 4 inches, and about 1 1/2 times the width of the skirt. Sew the strips of each fabric together with the right sides facing together until you have a strip of the right length for each side of the ruffle.
10. Pin one strip of fabric to the contrasting fabric (with right sides facing together) and sew up the short sides and one long side like so:
11. Turn the ruffle right side out and press. Gather the open edge and pin inside the skirt panels. Make sure that the gathers are distributed evenly and that the ruffle is turned so that the skirt will end up with a contrasting ruffle (e.g. In our case the gingham side of the ruffle was facing the floral print side of the skirt and floral ruffle side faced the gingham skirt side.) unless you want the fabrics to match on each side. Stitch.
12. Turn the skirt right side out and baste the top edge shut to prevent one of the skirt panels from slipping lower than the other. Gather the top edge and attach to one side of the bodice.
13. Press under the seam allowance to the other side of the bodice and topstitch to skirt.
14. Sew buttonholes on one the side of the jumper, and attach the buttons back to back on the other side of the center front. Be sure to put something in between the buttons and each side of the fabric so that the buttons aren't sewed too tight together (it will be impossible to button otherwise). We stuck two straight pins through the fabric (perpendicular) so that the buttons did not lay flat against the fabric. Then we sewed through both of the button's holes from one side to the other until the buttons were firmly attached.